Deep-Sea Fishing

Simply step aboard and cast your line for mahimahi, ahi ahi, ono, and marlin. That's about how quickly the fishing -- mostly trolling with lures -- begins on Kaua'i. The water gets deep quickly here, so there's less cruising time to fishing grounds. Of course, your captain may elect to cruise to a hot location where he's had good luck lately.

There are oodles of charter fishermen around; most depart from Nawiliwili Harbor in Lihu'e. Inquire about each boat's "fish policy," that is, what happens to the fish if any are caught. Some boats keep all; others will give you enough for a meal or two. On shared charters, ask about the maximum passenger count and about the fishing rotation; you'll want to make sure everyone gets a fair shot at reeling in the big one. Another option is to book a private charter. Shared and private charters run four, six, and eight hours in length.

Boats & Charters

Captain Don's Sport Fishing & Ocean Adventure. Captain Don is very flexible -- he'll stop to snorkel or whale-watch if that's what the group (four to six) wants. Saltwater fly-fishermen (bring your own gear) are welcome. He'll even fish for bait and let you keep part of whatever you catch. Rates start at $125 for shared; $525 for private charters. Nawiliwili Harbor, HI, USA. PHONE: 808/639-3012. www.captaindonsfishing.com.

Hana Pa'a. The advantage with Hana Pa'a is that they take fewer people (minimum two, maximum four), but you pay for it. Rates start at $200 for shared, $575 for private charters. Their fish policy is flexible. Nawiliwili Harbor, HI, USA. PHONE: 808/635-3474. www.fishkauai.com.

North Shore Charters. This is a great choice for anyone staying on the North Shore, although conditions may get iffy in the winter. The owner-operator -- there are no hired hands running the boat -- will fish for live bait or bottom fish if passengers are interested. You'll get to keep a share of whatever you catch. The boat carries four to six passengers and is also available for narrated tours of Na Pali Coast. 'Anini Beach Boat Ramp, HI, USA. PHONE: 808/828-1379 or 877/728-1379.

Boat Tours

One of the best ways to experience Na Pali Coast is by boat. There are numerous boat tour operators to choose from, and, quite frankly, they all do a good job. The most important thing, is to match you and your group's personality with the personality of the boat. If you like thrills and adventure, the rubber, inflatable rafts -- often called Zodiacs, which Jacques Cousteau made famous and which the U.S. Coast Guard uses -- will entice you. They're fast and sure to leave you drenched. If you prefer a smoother, more leisurely ride, then the large catamarans are the way to go.

You'll also have to decide whether you want to go on the morning tour, which includes a deli lunch and a stop for snorkeling, or the afternoon tour, which does not stop to snorkel but does include a sunset over the ocean. The 5½-hour morning tour with snorkeling is more popular with families and those who love dolphins. (In summer, most tour operators run an afternoon snorkel cruise, in addition to the morning tour.) Hawaiian Spinner Dolphins are so prolific in the mornings that some tour companies guarantee you'll see them. The 3½-hour afternoon tour is more popular with non-snorklers -- obviously -- and photographers interested in capturing the setting sunlight on the coast.

Most tour companies operate seven days a week, although schedules may vary by season, and offer both morning snorkeling and afternoon sightseeing tours of Na Pali Coast. Most companies do not allow pregnant women, people with bad backs or other serious health concerns, or children under four.

Catamaran Tours

Blue Dolphin Charters. This company operates 63-foot and 65-foot sailing (rarely raised and always motoring) catamarans designed with three decks of spacious seating with great visibility. The lower deck is best for shade-seekers. Upgrades from snorkeling to scuba diving -- no need for certification -- are available, but the diving is really best for beginners or people who need a refresher course. On Tuesday and Friday a tour of Na Pali Coast includes a detour across the channel to Ni'ihau for snorkeling and diving. Blue Dolphin recently implemented a two-drink maximum; probably because the mai tais are so good. Prices range from $99 to $175. In Port Allen Marina Center. Turn makai onto Rte. 541 off Rte. 50, at 'Ele'ele, HI, USA. PHONE: 808/335-5553 or 877/511-1311. www.kauaiboats.com.

Catamaran Kahanu. This Hawaiian-owned-and-operated company has been in business since 1985 and runs a 36-foot power catamaran with 18-passenger seating. The boat is smaller than most, and may feel a tad crowded, but the tour feels more personal, with a laid-back, 'ohana style. Guests can learn the ancient cultural practice of weaving with ti leaves on board. There's no alcohol allowed. Prices range from $80 to $105. From Rte. 50, turn left on Rte. 541 at 'Ele'ele, proceed just past Port Allen Marina Center, turn right at sign; check-in booth on left, HI, USA. PHONE: 808/645-6176 or 888/213-7711. www.catamarankahanu.com.

HoloHolo Charters. Choose between a 48-foot sailing (wind contingent and always motoring) catamaran trip to Na Pali Coast, and a 65-foot powered catamaran trip to the island of Ni'ihau. Both boats have large cabins and little outside seating. Originators of the Ni'ihau tour, HoloHolo Charters built their 65-foot powered catamaran with a wide beam to reduce side-to-side motion, and twin 425 HP turbo diesel engines specifically for the 17-mi channel crossing to Ni'ihau. Prices range from $89 to $169. Check in at Port Allen Marina Center. Turn makai onto Rte. 541 off Rte. 50, at 'Ele'ele, HI, USA. PHONE: 808/335-0815 or 800/848-6130. www.holoholocharters.com.

Kaua'i Sea Tours. This company operates a 61-foot sailing catamaran designed almost identically to that of Blue Dolphin Charters -- hence, with all the same benefits. They also have upgrades from snorkeling to intro-to-scuba-diving lessons. Snorkeling tours anchor at Nualolo Kai (a great snorkeling spot); and in summer, guests are offered a shuttle ride to shore on an inflatable raft and a tour of an ancient fishing village -- a unique cultural experience. Prices range from $95 to $149. Turn makai off Rte. 50 onto Rte. 541 at 'Ele'ele and left at Aka Ula Rd. Office on right, HI, USA. PHONE: 808/826-7254 or 800/733-7997. www.kauaiseatours.com.

Inflatable Raft Tours

Na Pali Explorer. Owned by a woman of Hawaiian descent, these tours are operated out of Waimea, a tad closer to Na Pali Coast than most of the catamaran tours. The company operates two inflatable rubber rafts: a 48-foot, 35-passenger craft with an onboard toilet, freshwater shower, shade canopy, and seating in the stern, which is surprisingly smooth and comfortable; and a 26-foot, 16-passenger craft for the all-out fun and thrills of a white-knuckle ride in the bow. Both stop at Nualolo Kai for snorkeling; in summer the smaller vessel ties up onshore for a tour of the ancient fishing village. Rates range from $79 to $125, and charters are available. Follow Rte. 50 west to Waimea; office mauka after crossing river, 9935 Kaumuali'i Hwy., Waimea, HI, 96796, USA. PHONE: 808/338-9999 or 877/335-9909. www.napali-explorer.com.

River Boat Tours to Fern Grotto

This 3-mi, upriver trip culminates at a yawning lava tube that is covered with enormous fishtail ferns. During the boat ride, guitar and 'ukulele players regale you with Hawaiian melodies and tell the history of the river. It's a kitschy bit of Hawaiiana; worth the little money ($20) and short time required. Flat-bottom, 150-passenger riverboats depart from Wailua Marina at the mouth of the Wailua River. Round-trip excursions take 1½ hours, including time to walk around the grotto and environs. Tours run every half hour from 9 AM to 3 PM daily. Reservations are not required. Contact Smith's Motor Boat Services (PHONE: 808/821-6892, www.smithskauai.com) for more information.

Boogie Boarding & Bodysurfing

The most natural form of wave riding is bodysurfing, a popular sport on Kaua'i, because there are many shore breaks around the island. Wave riders of this style stand waist-deep in the water, facing shore, and swim madly as a wave picks them up and breaks. It's great fun and requires no special skills and absolutely no equipment other than a swimsuit. The next step up is boogie boarding, also called body boarding. In this case, wave riders lie with their upper body on a foam board about half the length of a traditional surf board and kick as the wave propels them toward shore. Again, this is easy to pick up, and there are many places around Kaua'i to practice. The locals wear short-finned flippers to help them catch waves, although they are not necessary for and even hamper beginners. It's worth spending a few minutes watching these experts as they spin, twirl, and flip -- that's right -- while they slip down the face of the wave. Of course, all beach safety precautions apply and just because you see wave riders of any kind in the water doesn't mean it's safe. Any snorkel gear outfitter also rents body boards.

Best Spots

Some of our favorite body surfing and body boarding beaches are Brennecke, Wailua, Kealia, Kalihi Wai, and Hanalei.

Kayaking

Kaua'i is the only Hawaiian island with navigable rivers. As the oldest inhabited island in the chain, Kaua'i has had more time for wind and water erosion to deepen and widen cracks into streams and streams into rivers. Because this is a small island, the rivers aren't long, and there are no rapids; that makes them perfectly safe for kayakers of all levels, even beginners.

For more advanced paddlers, there aren't many places in the world more beautiful for sea kayaking than Na Pali Coast. If this is your draw to Kaua'i, plan your vacation for the summer months when the seas are at their calmest.

Tour and kayak rental reservations are recommended at least a week in advance during peak summer and holiday seasons. In general, tours and rentals are available year-round, Monday through Saturday. Pack a swimsuit, sunscreen, a hat, bug repellent, water shoes (sport sandals, aqua socks, old tennis shoes), and motion sickness medication if you're planning on sea kayaking.

Best Spots for River Kayaking

Tour outfitters operate on the Hule'ia, Wailua, and Hanalei rivers with guided tours that combine hiking to waterfalls, as in the case of the first two, and snorkeling, as is the case of the third. Another option is renting kayaks and heading out on your own. There are advantages and disadvantages to each, but it boils down as follows:

If you want to swim at the base of a remote, 100-foot waterfall, sign up for a five-hour kayak (4 mi round-trip) and hiking (2 mi round-trip) tour of the Wailua River; it includes a dramatic waterfall that is best accessed with the aid of a guide, so you don't get lost. Remember that it's dangerous to swim directly under waterfalls no matter how good a water massage may sound. Rocks and logs are known to plunge down, especially after heavy rains.

If you want to kayak on your own, choose the Hanalei River; it's the most scenic from the kayak itself -- there are no trails to hike to hidden waterfalls. And better yet, a rental company is right on the river -- no hauling kayaks on top of your car.

If you're not sure of your kayaking abilities, head to the Hule'ia River; 3½-hour tours include easy paddling upriver, a nature walk through a rain forest with a cascading waterfall, a rope swing for playing Tarzan and Jane, and a ride back down river -- into the wind -- on a motorized, double-hull canoe.

As for the kayaks themselves, most companies use the two-person, sit-on-top style that are quite buoyant -- no Eskimo rolls required. The only possible danger comes in the form of communication. The kayaks seat two people, which means you'll share the work (good) with a spouse, child, parent, friend, or guide (the potential danger part). On the river, the two-person kayaks are known as "divorce boats." Counseling is not included in the tour price.

Best Spots for Sea Kayaking

In its second year and second issue, National Geographic Adventure ranked kayaking Na Pali Coast second on its list of "America's Best 100 Adventures," right behind rafting the Colorado River through the Grand Canyon. That pretty much says it all. It's the adventure of a lifetime in one day -- involving eight hours of paddling. Although it's good to have some kayaking experience, feel comfortable on the water, and be reasonably fit, it doesn't require the preparation, stamina, or fortitude of, say, climbing Mt. Everest. Tours run May through September, ocean conditions permitting. In the winter months sea-kayaking tours operate on the South Side -- beautiful, but not Na Pali.

Kayak Rentals & Tours

Aloha Canoes and Kayaks. This group bills itself as the only Hawaiian-owned-and-operated kayak tour outfitter in the world. Kayak tours available include 3½-hour morning and afternoon tours on the Hule'ia River, as well as a longer picnic lunch version. In addition to kayaking, river and ocean paddling adventures in a Hawaiian-style outrigger canoe are available. All tours leave from their mooring on the Hule'ia River. Rates start at $82. Check-in office in Anchor Cove Shopping Center, 3416 Rice St., Lihu'e, HI, USA. PHONE: 808/246-6804 or 877/473-5446. www.hawaiikayaks.com.

Kayak Kaua'i. Based in Hanalei, this company offers guided tours on the Hanalei and Wailua rivers, and along Na Pali Coast. They have a great shop right on the Hanalei River for kayak rentals and camping gear. The guided Hanalei River Kayak and Snorkel Tour starts at the shop and heads downriver, so there's not much to see of the scenic river valley. (For that, rent a kayak on your own.) Instead, this three-hour tour paddles down to the river mouth where the river meets the sea. Then, it's a short paddle around a point to snorkel at either Pu'u Poa Beach or, ocean conditions permitting, a bit farther at Hideaways Beach. This is a great choice if you want to try your paddle at a bit of ocean kayaking.

A second location in Kapa'a (only open during check-in times) is the base for Wailua River guided tours and kayak rentals; it's not right on the river, however, so shuttling is involved. For rentals, the company provides the hauling gear necessary for your rental car. Guided tours range from $60 to $185. Kayak rentals range from $28 to $75. Hanalei: 1 mi past Hanalei bridge, on makai side, HI, USA. PHONE: 808/826-9844 or 800/437-3507. www.kayakkauai.com. Kapa'a: south end of Coconut Marketplace near movie theaters.

Na Pali Kayak. A couple of longtime guides for Kayak Kaua'i ventured out on their own a few years back to create this company that focuses solely on sea kayaking -- Na Pali Coast in summer and the South Side in winter. These guys are highly experienced and still highly enthusiastic about their livelihood. Prices start at $175. 5-575 Kuhio Hwy., next to Postcards Cafe, HI, USA. PHONE: 808/826-6900 or 866/977-6900. www.napalikayak.com.

Outfitters Kaua'i. This well-established tour outfitter operates year-round river-kayak tours on the Hule'ia and Wailua rivers; as well as sea-kayaking tours along Na Pali Coast in summer and the South Side in winter. They're always coming up with new adventures and their latest is the Kipu Safari. This all-day adventure starts with kayaking up the Hule'ia River, and includes a rope swing by a swimming hole, a wagon ride through a working cattle ranch, a picnic lunch by a private waterfall, hiking, and a "zip" across the river (strap on a harness, clip into a cable and zip across the river). It ends with a ride on a motorized, double-hull canoe. It's a great tour for the family, because no one ever gets bored. The Kipu Safari costs $145; other guided tours range from $90 to $185. 2827-A Po'ipu Rd., Po'ipu, HI, 96756, USA. PHONE: 808/742-9667 or 888/742-9886. www.outfitterskauai.com.

Wailua Kayak & Canoe. This is the only purveyor of kayak rentals on the Wailua River, which means no hauling your kayak on top of your car (a definite plus). Rates are $37.50 per person (not per boat) and may increase during busier summer months. Across from Wailua Beach, turn mauka at Kuamo'o Rd. and take first left, 169 Walua Rd., Kapa'a, HI, USA. PHONE: 808/821-1188.

Kiteboarding

The latest wave-riding craze to hit the islands is kiteboarding. As the name implies, there's a kite and a board involved. The board you strap on your feet; the kite is attached to a harness around your waist. Steering is accomplished with a rod that's attached to the harness and the kite. Depending on conditions and the desires of the kiteboarder, the kite is played out some 30 to 100 feet in the air. The result is a cross between waterskiing -- without the boat -- and windsurfing. Speeds are fast and aerobatic maneuvers are involved. If you're a surfer of any kind, you might like to give this a try. (We highly recommend a lesson; besides, there's no rental gear available on the island.) Otherwise, you might find it more fun to watch. The most popular year-round spot for kiteboarding is Kapa'a Beach Park due to its reliable northeast trade winds.

'Anini Beach Windsurfing. The certified kiteboarding instructors here give five-hour lessons for $400 for one person or $600 for two. Lessons are usually held at Hanalei Bay and are only available when conditions allow. Call for reservations. Meet at beach, Hanalei, HI, USA. PHONE: 808/826-9463.

Many visitors come to Kaua'i dreaming of parasailing. If that's you, make a stop at Maui or the Big Island. There's no parasailing on Kaua'i.

Scuba Diving

The majority of scuba diving on Kaua'i occurs on the South Side. Boat and shore dives are available, although boat sites surpass the shore sites for a couple of reasons. First, they're deeper and exhibit the complete symbiotic relationship of a reef system; and, second, the visibility is better a little further off shore.

The dive operators below offer a full range of services, including certification dives, referral dives, boat dives, shore dives, night dives, and drift dives. As for certification, we recommend completing your confined-water training and classroom testing before arriving on island; that way, you'll spend less time training and more time diving.

Best Spots

The best and safest scuba-diving sites are accessed by boat on the South Side of the island, right off the shores of Po'ipu. The captain selects the actual site based on ocean conditions of the day; Sheraton Caverns, General Store, and Brennecke's Ledge are good picks. Beginners may prefer shore dives, which are best at Koloa Landing on the South Side year-round and Makua (Tunnels) Beach on the North Shore in the calm summer months. Keep in mind though, you'll have to haul your gear quite a ways down the beach.

For the advanced diver, the island of Ni'ihau -- across an open ocean channel in deep and crystal-clear waters -- beckons and rewards, usually, with some big fish. Seasport Divers and Bubbles Below venture the 17 mi across the channel in summer when the crossing is smoothest. Divers can expect deep dives, walls, and strong currents at Ni'ihau where conditions can change rapidly. To make the long journey worthwhile, three dives and Nitrox are included.

Dive Tours & Equipment Rentals

Seasport Divers. Rated highly by readers of Rodale's Scuba Diving magazine, Seasport Divers' 48-foot Anela Kai tops the chart for dive boat luxury. The company does a brisk business, which means they won't cancel at the last minute because of a lack of reservations -- like some other companies. They also run a good-sized dive shop for purchase and rentals. Ni'ihau trips are available in summer. All trips leave from Kukuiula Harbor in Po'ipu. Rates start at $120 for a two-tank boat dive; $20 extra for rental gear. Check-in office on Po'ipu Rd. just north of Lawa'i Rd. turnoff to Spouting Horn. Look for yellow submarine in parking lot, 2827 Po'ipu Rd., Po'ipu, HI, USA. PHONE: 808/742-9303 or 800/685-5889. www.kauaiscubadiving.com.

Bubbles Below. Marine ecology is the emphasis here. This company discovered some pristine dive sites on the West Side of the island where white-tip reef sharks are common -- and other divers are not. In summer they offer Ni'ihau and Na Pali dives. A bonus on these tours is the Grinds pizza serveed up between dives. There's a charge of $110 for a standard two-tank boat dive; up to $25 extra for rental gear. Port Allen Small Boat Harbor; turn makai onto Rte. 541 from Rte. 50 in 'Ele'ele, HI, USA. PHONE: 808/332-7333 or 866/524-6268. www.bubblesbelowkauai.com.

Snorkeling

Generally speaking, the calmest water and best snorkeling can be found on Kaua'i's North Shore in summer and South Side in winter. The eastern shore, known as the windward side, has year-round, prevalent northeast trade winds that make snorkeling unpredictable, although there are some good pockets. The best snorkeling on the West Side is accessible only by boat.

A word on feeding fish: don't. As Captain Ted with HoloHolo Charters says, fish have survived and populated reefs for much longer than we have been donning goggles and staring at them; they will continue to do so without our intervention. Besides, fish food messes up the reef and -- one thing always leads to another -- can eliminate a once-pristine reef environment.

Best Spots

Just because we say these are good places to snorkel doesn't mean the exact moment you arrive, the fish will flock -- they are wild, after all. The beaches here are listed in clockwise fashion starting on the North Shore.

The search for Tunnels (Makua) (At Ha'ena Beach Park, near end of Rte. 560, across from lava-tube sea caves, after stream crossing, HI, USA.) is as tricky as the snorkeling. Park at Ha'ena Beach Park and walk east -- away from Na Pali Coast -- until you see a sand channel entrance in the water, almost at the point. Once you get here, the reward is fantastic. The name of this beach comes from the many underwater lava tubes, which always attract marine life. The shore is mostly beach rock interrupted by three sand channels. You'll want to enter and exit at one of these channels (or risk stepping on a sea urchin or scraping your stomach on the reef). Follow the sand channel to a drop-off; the snorkeling along here is always full of nice surprises. Expect a current running east to west. Please note that snorkeling here in winter can be hazardous; summer is the best and safest time for snorkeling.

Lydgate Beach Park (Just south of Wailua River, turn makai off Rte. 56 onto Lehu Dr. and left onto Nalu Rd., HI, USA.) is the absolute safest place to snorkel on Kaua'i. With its lava-rock wall creating a protected swimming pool, this is the perfect spot for beginners, young and old. The fish are so tame here it's almost like swimming in a saltwater aquarium.

You'll generally find good, year-round snorkeling at Po'ipu Beach Park (From Po'ipu Rd., turn right on Ho'one Rd., HI, USA.), except during summer's south swells (which are not nearly as frequent as winter's north swells). The best snorkeling fronts the Marriott Waiohai Beach Club. Stay inside the crescent shape created by the sand bar and rocky point. The current runs east to west.

Don't pack the beach umbrella, beach mats, or cooler for snorkeling at Beach House (Lawa'i Beach) (Makai side of Lawa'i Rd.; park on road in front of Lawa'i Beach Resort, HI, USA.). Just bring your snorkel gear. The beach -- named after its neighbor the Beach House restaurant (yum) -- is on the road to Spouting Horn. It's a small slip of sand during low tide and a rocky shoreline during high tide; however, it's right by the road's edge, and its rocky coastline and somewhat rocky bottom make it great for snorkeling. Enter and exit in the sand channel (not over the rocky reef) that lines up with the Lawa'i Beach Resort's center atrium. Stay within the rocky points anchoring each end of the beach. The current runs east to west.

Nu'alolo Kai was once an ancient Hawaiian fish pond and is now the best snorkeling along Na Pali Coast (and perhaps on all of Kaua'i). The only way to access it is by boat, and only a few Na Pali snorkel tour operators are permitted to do so. We recommend Na Pali Explorer and Kaua'i Sea Tours.

With little river runoff and hardly any boat traffic, the waters off the island of Ni'ihau are some of the clearest in all Hawai'i and that's good for snorkeling. Like Nu'alolo Kai, the only way to snorkel here is to sign on with one of the two tour boats venturing across a sometimes rough open ocean channel: Blue Dolphin Charters and HoloHolo. Sammy the Monk Seal likes to hang out behind Lehua Rock off the north end of Ni'ihau and swim with the snorkelers.

Guided Snorkel Tours

SeaFun Kaua'i. This guided snorkel tour, for beginners and intermediates alike, is led by a marine expert, so not only is there excellent "how-to" instruction, but the guide actually gets in the water with you and identifies marine life. You're guaranteed to spot a plethora of critters you'd never see on your own. This is a land-based operation and the only one of its kind on Kaua'i. (Don't think those snorkel cruises are guided snorkel tours, they are not. A member of the boat's crew serves as lifeguard, not a marine life guide.) A half-day tour includes all your snorkel gear -- including a wetsuit to keep you warm -- and stops at two snorkel locations, chosen based on ocean conditions. Check in at Kilohana Plantation in Puhi, next to Kaua'i Community College, HI, USA. PHONE: 808/245-6400 or 800/452-1113. www.alohakauaitours.com.

Surfing

Good old stand-up surfing is alive and well on Kaua'i, especially in winter's high surf season on the North Shore. If you're new to the sport, we highly recommend taking a lesson. Not only will this ensure you're up and riding waves in no time, instructors will provide the right board for your experience and size, help you time a wave, and give you a push to get your momentum going. If you're experienced and want to hit the waves on your own, most surf shops rent boards for all levels -- from beginners to advanced.

Best Spots

Perennial-favorite beginning surf spots include Po'ipu Beach (the area fronting the Marriott Waiohai Beach Club); Hanalei Bay (the area next to the Hanalei Pier); and the stream end of Kalapaki Beach. More advanced surfers move down the beach in Hanalei to an area fronting a grove of pine trees known as "Pine Trees," of course. When the trade winds die, the north ends of Wailua and Kealia beaches are teeming with surfers. Breaks off Po'ipu and Beach House/Lawa'i Beach attract intermediates year-round. During high surf, the break on the cliff side of Kalihi Wai is for experts only.

Lessons

Blue Seas Surf School. Surfer and instructor Charlie Smith specializes in beginners (especially children) and will go anywhere on the island to find just the right surf. His soft-top, long boards are very stable, making it easier to stand up. Rates start at $50 for a two-hour lesson. Meet at beach; location varies pending surf conditions, HI, USA. PHONE: 808/634-6979. www.blueseassurfingschool.com.

Margo Oberg Surfing School. Seven-time world surfing champion Margo Oberg runs a surf school that meets on the beach in front of the Sheraton Kaua'i in Po'ipu. Lessons are $48 for two hours, though she rarely teaches any more. Po'ipu Beach, HI, USA. PHONE: 808/332-6100.

Titus Kinimaka. Famed as a pioneer of big-wave surfing, this Hawaiian just started his surf school in 2004. Beginning, intermediate, and "extreme" lessons, including tow-in, are available. If you want to learn to surf from a living legend, this is the man. Rates are $65 for a 90-minute group lesson; $100 to $120 per hour for a private lesson; $150 for a two-hour, tow-in lesson. A surf DVD is included with each lesson. Meets at various beaches, HI, USA. PHONE: 808/652-1116.

Surf Board Rentals

Progressive Expressions. On Koloa Rd. in Old Koloa Town, HI, USA. PHONE: 808/742-6041.

Tamba Surf Company. Mauka on north end of Hwy. 56 in Kapa'a; across from Scotty's Beachside BBQ; 4-1543 Kuhio Hwy., Kapa'a, HI, USA. PHONE: 808/823-6943.

Hanalei Surf Company. Mauka at Hanalei Center, 5-5161 Kuhio Hwy., Hanalei, HI, USA. PHONE: 808/826-9000.

Whale-Watching

Every winter North Pacific humpback whales swim some 3,000 mi over 30 days, give or take a few, from Alaska to Hawai'i. Whales arrive as early as November and sometimes stay through April; though they seem to be most populous in February and March. They come to Hawai'i to breed, calve, and nurse their young.

Although humpbacks spend more than 90% of their lives underwater, they can be very active above water while they're in Hawai'i. Here are a few maneuvers you may see: 1) Blow: the expulsion of air that looks like a geyser of water. 2) Spy hop: the raising of just the whale's head out of the water, as if to take a look around. 3) Tail slap: the repetitive slap of the tail, or fluke, on the surface of the water. 4) Pec slap: the repetitive slap of one or both fins on the surface of the water. 5) Fluke up dive: the waving of the tail above water as the whale slowly rolls under water to dive. 6) Breach: the launching of the entire whale's body out of the water.

Of course, nothing beats seeing a whale up close. During the season, any boat on the water is looking for whales; they're hard to avoid, whether the tour is labeled "whale-watching" or not. Several boat operators will add short, afternoon whale-watching tours during the season that run on the South Side (not Na Pali). Operators include Blue Dolphin, Catamaran Kahanu, HoloHolo, and Na Pali Explorer. There are a few lookout spots around the island with good land-based viewing: Kilauea Lighthouse on the North Shore, the Kapa'a Scenic Overlook just north of Kapa'a town on the East Side, and the cliffs to the east of Keoneloa (Shipwreck) Beach on the South Side.

Windsurfing

Windsurfing on Kaua'i isn't nearly as popular as it is on Maui; however, 'Anini Beach Park is the place if you're going to windsurf or play the spectator. Rentals and lessons are available from Windsurf Kaua'i (PHONE: 808/828-6838). Lessons run $75 for three hours; rentals run $25 for one hour, and up to $75 for the day. The instructor will meet you on 'Anini Beach.